Finished Dash

The rear lights have been cut and bonded into the rear arches, there bonded from the inside. The fog light is mounted into a pod to keep the light 90° to the road.

 A speedo healer is fitted into the engine ign loom, via the main grey plug,  to give the Kawasaki Clocks the correct reading due the change in wheel size and diff ratio. The factory setting given is -37.

 The hazard circuit has diodes in the circuit to prevent feedback on the lights.

The dash panel is made of carbon fibre, with Savage switch gear for the side lights, headlights main beam, horn, hazards, fog, brake fluid warning, there are also push buttons for lap timer and speedo top speed recall. A toggle switch for the indicators.

 The clocks are split in half and the to push button (MODE & RESET) were extended to allow for the thickness of the dash.

The savage switches were also split up ready for flush mounting. The dash panel was masked up and drilled out for the switches and a dermal was used for the clocks.

As the lights are LED style, a special flasher unit is fitted to the indicator circuit and to the hazard circuit.

3 relays have been fitted for the Main Beam, Dipped Beam and Ignition.

 The lights ( for sva only ) work as side lights work independent of the ign, the fog only works when the side lights are on, the dipped and main only work when the ign and side lights are on, hazard work independent of the ign and the indicator work only with the ign on.

 All the buttons illuminate when the lights are on.

The rear of the dash wiring is on a 20way multi plug to make dash removal easy.

The old sprocket was removed from the engine and a new sprocket adaptor was fitted with the original lock nut and locking tap. The propshaft bolts to this with HT Allen bolts and ny-loc nuts.

The rear hubs have to be spun up on a lathe to reduce the diameter. Then the hubs are bolted up to the carrier, the brake plates are faced backward to mount the calliper at the rear. The 41mm nut was tightened with a massive breaker bar.

The mac#1 drive shafts consist of freelander inner joint, bespoke drive shaft and sierra outer joint and hub.

The sierra shaft was striped down as normal, keeping the cir-clip, bearing, tripod stub axle; the bearing was removed form the shaft with a puller.

Then in order a new rubber gator and new metal bearing sleeve was placed on the shaft, then the white bush was pushed over the new shaft, then the bearing was cleaned and pressed onto the new shaft with the cir-clip over the end, the tension spring and cap was cleaned and re greased with the stub axle.

 All was pushed tog eater in a vice and the edge of the metal sleeve was tapped over to seal it. The passenger’s side of the car has a shorter drive shaft and has a ‘LEFT HAND Thread’ nut on the stub axle.

The freelander joint just pushes in the diff held in via a clip on the splinned shaft into the diff. The joint is built in this order

Rubber gator, then the tripod bearing held in place with a cir-clip again, the gator is held to the joint via a clip which stops the shaft pulling out.

Cooling pipes are run in Ali tubes and samco silicone hoses, all have stainless steel Jubilee clips,

The flow go from the water pump top outlet  to the thermostat left inlet, then the  thermostat right outlet  to the radiator top hose, then the  radiator bottom hose goes to the pump bottom outlet.

The water pump also feeds the oil cooler with flow to the 15mm outlet on the radiator, there is a 3mm bleed on the thermostat housing which goes to the radiator 3mm bleed.

Aluminium tubes are 25mm and 15mm

The front wings are held on with the Worth Adhesive, the underneath of the wing and the wing stays were cleaned up to let the adhesive bond, the brackets were bent unlit the arches sat evenly and the wheel turned freely.

The rear arches are bolted in place through the side panels with tadpole trim in between, the arches are lined up by, keeping the front edge flush with the bottom of the side panels, the rear sits about 35mm from the bottom of the tub and there is 15mm to the corner of the upper side panel where it arcs up and over.

The front nose cone is held in place with rivnuts top and bottom, the nose has to be squeezed in to line up with the chassis and bonnet, small ali plate were made up and rivet in place to stop the fibre glass from splitting from being squeezed.

The rear tub cut underneath to all the chassis to poke through so the tub can sit square to the side panels.

The front grill is riveted through the nose cone through the grill then a washer to spread the load.

Side panel re-marked for the square cut out for the shock. The holes were cut using a hole saw, with the panel covered in masking tape; the straight cuts were cut using a dermal and cut off disc.

 The rear tub was then offered up, to line up with the side panels, a line was drawn down where the roll bar sits and each panel was cut just over the line then filed back (using a power file) until this was a perfect flush fit, but due to different thickness in the panels it didn’t sit flush, so a filler piece was bonded behind and the rear arches pull up any play.

 The tub is held in place with rivets underneath and along the side chassis rails.

 The underneath of the rear rub was also cut at the front on each side to allow the tub to sit square to the top section of the rear side panel. The top filler panel was then marked for the harness holes to poke through. This is boned in place as is the side panels with ‘Worth Bond Adhesive / sealant’ it was cut around the roll bar base to allow the bar to sit on the chassis rather than the filler panel.

 The scuttle is notched for the steering chassis mounts.

The side panel were fitted first ( but on temp via some self tapper screws ), they were butted up to the rear diagonal box section that goes up the roll bar mounting plate, reference marks were made to re align the panels the same place each time.

 The holes were cut into the front section for the wish bones to poke through, these were marked from the inside out with a block of wood placed into the wishbone bracket butted up against the side panel and drawn around, as the wishbones are tapered inwards and the bottom chassis rail is away from the panel this was accounted for when lining up the holes.

 The shock absorber was later modified to a large square cut out as per MAC#1 to enable the shock to sit at its angle and enable easy fitment and movement.

 The scuttle panel was used to line up the side panels as it lines up with the kink in the side panels, top chassis rail and edge of dash top chassis rail. The scuttle is held in place via rivnuts.

The rear brake set up, handbrake cables mounted to the lever asembly, the rear disc bracket mounted tot he rear hub ( this can only fit one way to line up with all four holes in the hub carrier)

The handbrake cables are clamped with solderless nipple to a mounting plate, with a threaded bar with clevis pin to the brake lever.

To adjust the lever, i pulled up the handbrake lever 6 clicks then took up the slack on the cable adjuster where they pass into the rear section of chassis, then wound them untill the rear brakes binded.

To get the disc in the centre or the caliper a ’1mm’ washer was placed on each wheel stud to centre the disc.